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Saturday, 27 January 2018

HOW TO STRENGTHEN THE SKIN BARRIER WHILE LIGHTENING


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I have tought about strengthening the skin elasticity and barrier while lightening.
 What do you think?
Stimulating and strengthening our skin’s natural barrier function is a goal we should all aim to meet when we create our skin care regimens. Whether you are skin lightening or treating rosacea – you can’t go wrong with using ingredients which improve your barrier function.

The skin’s barrier function (the epidermal layer) is incredibly delicate yet powerful. It’s main purpose is to prevent water loss as well as excess absorption of water from entering the body. It literally protects every cell. This is why we should find ways to keep it in an optimal state.

Bringing it back to a skin lightening regimen, having a strong barrier function is key in tolerating alpha hydroxy acid serums and peels, strong skin lighteners, rx retinoids as well as vitamin c serums. Most of us can withstand low % of these ingredients without much issue.

 It’s when we try to upgrade to higher strength products that skin reactivity issues become apparent (excess redness, irritation, inflammation, increased melanin production etc.).

This is why we should slowly integrate barrier function strengthening ingredients and practices into our regimens to allow us to use more skin lightening treatments and enhance our complexions.

In this very article you're going to learn how to build a skin barrier regime for your skin while you lighten, below are some ways to strengthen the barrier function of our skin:

READ
HOW TO GET YOUR SKINCARE PRODUCTS TO WORK FOR YOU

HERE WE GO:

Niacinamide
Extensive research has emerged in the last 10 years proving the barrier enhancing abilities of niacinamide. Many dermatologists believe this ingredient is one of the most powerful ways to create more resilient skin. Niacinamide stimulates microcirculation (which dramatically help with radiance and luminosity) and increases ceramide levels which prevents water loss.
Products : Olay Regenerist Daily Regenerating Serum, Elta MD UV Clear SPF 46, NIA24 Skin Strengthening Complex (contains NAD – form of niacin), CerAve PM, DIY Niacinamide Mask & Toner.

Ceramide
Ceramide levels natural occur in the skin. They are vital aspects of intercellular lipids which protect underlying skin tissues. Integrated into serums and moisturizing creams, they can enhance existing levels and drastically improve the function strength of the skin.
Products: Vichy Bi White Double Reveal Whitening Essence.

N-acetyl glucosamine
Known mainly for it’s tyrosinase inhibiting effects on UV damaged skin cells, n-acetyl glucosamine has been shown to improve skin resiliency as well as contribute to the product of hyaluronic acid which is key in the process of rehydration
Products: Olay Definity.

Vitamin B5
Otherwise known as dexpanthenol has been clinically shown to improve stratum corneum hydration and epidermal function in as little as 7 days in a vivo study.

Petrolatum
Petrolatum ointments and jellies have the ability to reduce the amount of water loss, as well as allow normal skin barrier function recovery to ensue quicker after an occlusion (harsh cleansing, microdermabrasion etc.)
Avoiding harsh cleansers and scrubs
Don’t under estimate this! Avoid using cleansers with sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) or stripping foaming cleansers. Harsh scrubs can also compromise the barrier function of the skin leading to increases sensitivity and even broken capillaries/micro tears.

Avoid ‘over moisturizing’
Some studies show that certain moisturizers (usually ones that are bland with no ceramides or any actives) applied excessively and for a long period of time can increase the susceptibility to irritants.
I’ve researched into this high and low, and it’s difficult to pin point the reasons why trans-epidermal water loss occurs when there is excessive, long term use of a moisturizer.

In any case, it only solidifies my belief that moisturizers are only applied to areas that are dry! If the skin is normal, and not flaking or dried out there is no need for a moisturizer.

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